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Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Gombey Dancers

When I first started blogging, a good friend who lived on the island asked in the first month, "What are you going to write about later, I mean you have almost covered all of the obvious places."  I smiled and said I was pretty sure I would always find something to ramble on about.  It is true that I am greatly amused by the little things.  It is true that there is always something to do in Bermuda.  However, sometimes it's not that obvious.  Sometimes it is an event that just takes a moment or two but is worth seeing.  Sometimes it is doing things over for the tenth or eleventh time but in different company.  I can honestly say I have never been bored in Bermuda.

This week there are some friends on the island who wanted to see Bermuda before I left.  They have two sons, aged 7 and 11, and so I expect I will be seeing things through another whole new set of eyes this week.  Today they took their first Bermuda bus ride (I forgot to ask if the bus driver was one of the ones who likes to play tour guide and entertainer, as several do, and if they had any moments of terror, which can happen on our narrow windy roads).  They made their way into Hamilton and walked around town while I was at work, and I met them in town for supper, the 11 year old looking very dapper in his plaid pastel island style hat he picked out since he forgot his cap at home.  I chose to take them to Flanagan's because they have a broad menu, with lots of things for the kids to find.  I discovered the Flanagan's I already know and love so well is really great with kids as well.  They had crayons and coloring, colorful plastic cups for the drinks, and when we went back the second time at the end of the night after missing the bus, the same waiter greeted us again with a smile, and cut the little guy off on chocolate milk too late at night and convinced him he should go straight milk.  What can I say, parents and kids and tour guide were happy.

In between stops at Flanagan's, we took in Harbour Nights, which is a weekly event taking place on Wednesdays where local artists and small vendors set up tables with their craft.  There are many unique items that you can only find at Harbour Nights so I recommend it for all visitors -- on this occasion I fell in love with a Bermuda Cedar clock, some beautiful hand painted tiles, and the yummy deliciousness that is Amber's Rumcakes.  I have to be careful what I acquire as moving space will be limited in July, but I loved all of these things and hope to go back for them before I move away.

I meant to take my camera, but I forgot.  So I was left with only my phone when the Gombey dancers came by.

The Gombey Dancers are a colorful, traditional group that dance to a heavy drumbeat in an energetic fashion.  Some of the dancers "challenge" each other in the course of the program, and it is very interesting to watch.  It is also interesting that the dancers include small children in the same elaborate costume.  The lead dancer carries a bow and arrow.  Another figure has a whip.  A loud whistle or two are interspersed with the heavy drumbeats.

The dancers were masked to hide their identity when the dance was not welcome, if not illegal outside of certain holidays, as late as the early 1800's.  The group traditions are passed down orally, and it is an esteemed tradition to be a part of.


Gombey dancers are an icon of Bermuda and unique to the culture of Bermuda.  There are other similar styles, such as the Goombay's of Bahama, but, the Gombey dancers are recognized by academia as unique to Bermuda.  I know this to be true because I just wiki-ed it.  Overall, I am just glad to have a picture of it now, even if it is just a grainy phone picture.  They only performed for a few minutes, but this is one of those short but sweet occurrences in Bermuda that you want to see at least once.



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